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Written in Collaboration with Dr. Samila Asad
Our skin tells the story of our lives. From teenage breakouts to pigmentation, sensitivity, and the first fine lines, it changes with every stage of life. With so many skincare products on the shelves, it’s no surprise that patients often ask me: “Which ingredients actually work for my skin?”
At The Female Health Doctor Clinic, I use a tailored approach, relying on evidence-based active ingredients to address skin concerns such as acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, melasma, dullness, and signs of ageing. Below, I’ve outlined some of the most effective actives I prescribe or recommend as part of bespoke skincare formulations.
Tretinoin
Best for: Acne, pigmentation, fine lines, uneven texture
Tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid (vitamin A derivative). It boosts cell turnover, unclogs pores, smooths skin, and stimulates collagen production. It’s one of the most powerful treatments for acne and photo-ageing. Because it can initially cause irritation, tretinoin should always be used under medical supervision.
Niacinamide
Best for: Redness, enlarged pores, barrier repair, uneven tone
Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide is a multitasker that calms inflammation, regulates oil production, and supports the skin barrier. It’s particularly helpful for patients struggling with post-acne marks or dull, uneven skin.
Azelaic Acid
Best for: Rosacea, acne, pigmentation
Gentle yet effective, azelaic acid reduces redness, unclogs pores, and helps fade dark marks. It’s ideal for sensitive or acne-prone skin and is often used in rosacea treatment thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties.
Tranexamic Acid
Best for: Melasma, stubborn pigmentation
Tranexamic acid is one of the most exciting ingredients in modern dermatology. It works by reducing melanin production and calming skin inflammation, making it particularly effective for melasma when used in combination with other targeted treatments.
Kojic Acid
Best for: Dark spots, uneven skin tone
Derived from fungi, kojic acid is a natural skin-brightener. It helps fade pigmentation and even out tone. Because it can be potent, professional guidance is key for safe, effective use.
Alpha-Arbutin
Best for: Sun damage, pigmentation
A gentler alternative to hydroquinone, alpha-arbutin reduces melanin production and gradually fades dark spots caused by sun exposure or ageing. Its low irritation risk makes it suitable for sensitive skin.
Vitamin C
Best for: Brightening, collagen support, antioxidant defence
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) protects skin against environmental damage from pollution and UV rays. It also stimulates collagen, evens tone, and brings an instant brightness boost. A must-have for any anti-ageing or radiance-focused routine.
Topical Estrogen
Best for: Menopausal skin changes, thinning and dryness
During perimenopause and menopause, declining estrogen leads to thinner, drier, less elastic skin. Topical estriol (a gentle form of estrogen) can restore hydration, firmness, and texture—making it a valuable option for women seeking skin rejuvenation during hormonal transitions.
Hydroquinone
Best for: Severe pigmentation, melasma
Hydroquinone is one of the most powerful skin-lightening agents, suppressing melanin production to tackle stubborn pigmentation. However, it should only be used short-term and under close medical supervision due to its strength.
Bespoke Skincare Formulations
No two skins are alike. That’s why at The Female Health Doctor Clinic, I work with a specialist compounding pharmacy to create personalised skincare formulations. By combining the right actives in the right strengths, I design treatment plans that address each patient’s unique skin goals—whether it’s clearing acne, softening fine lines, calming rosacea, or fading pigmentation.
Final Thoughts
The skincare world can feel overwhelming, but when you cut through the noise, results come from targeted, evidence-based ingredients used correctly. If you’re struggling with skin concerns and want clarity, expert guidance, and a plan designed specifically for you, a consultation can make all the difference.
Book an appointment today at The Female Health Doctor Clinic and start your journey to clearer, healthier, more radiant skin.
